FEBRUARY, 2017
We have been in San Miguel de Allende for just three weeks and have already experienced several celebrations. Fiestas are a way of life here.
During our first week here, the town celebrated Ignacio Allende’s birthday. Ignacio Allende is a great hero in the history of modern Mexico. He was a leader in the revolution against Spain which gave independence to Mexico. Allende was born in San Miguel and after his death, the town changed its name from San Miguel to San Miguel de Allende in his honor. His birthday celebration is a major event that includes a special mass, fireworks, military parades and bands, lots of Mexican flags, red, green and white decorations throughout the city, an air show (definitely NOT the Blue Angels), and the placing of a colorful statue of Ignacio Allende in the Jardín.
There was a major military parade that included marching bands, dozens of jeeps full of soldiers brandishing their weapons, trucks pulling missiles on trailers, and soldiers on horseback showing off their elegant uniforms and weapons.
The next week, we were awakened very early in the morning by the loud booming of explosions which continued for several hours. These, we discovered, were “cuetes” (firecrackers), an important part of every religious celebration. They are a symbolic way of speaking to God.
There were two special Saints Days back to back, Santo Pablo and Santo Francisco. The celebrations included special early morning masses, followed by religious processions throughout the town. Apparently these are the kick-off to two important Catholic pilgrimages.
The following week we experienced the “Candelaria,” one of the most important events in the Catholic religion. This marks the end of the Christmas season. Christmas in Mexico begins on December 16 and continues until January 2. From December 16 through 24 there are nine nights of “posadas” (parties) to celebrate the nine months of the Virgin Mary’s pregnancy. Then on December 25 each family takes a baby Jesus “niño” (doll) to church for the Christmas mass. After mass they return home with their “niño Jesus” and put him to sleep in his basket in the manger scene, where he remains sleeping until January 2.
On the day of Candelaria, the “niño Jesus” opens his eyes for the first time. Each family dresses its “niño” in a brand new outfit and straps him into a small chair, which they then carry to mass. When they return home after mass, they put the “niño Jesus” on display for the rest of the year until the following December, when they begin the process all over again. On January 2, the day of Candelaria, I saw several women walking through town with their Jesus dolls in fancy dress sitting on their special chairs. One chair I saw was bright shiny gold.
Candelaria is also a huge celebration of plants and flowers, to celebrate the awakening of the baby Jesus. In Parque Juarez the flower show continues for over a week, including gardening workshops, plant sales, and special folklore shows each evening. In the main square many flower sellers make crowns of fresh flowers that they sell to young girls.
We have noticed that Mexicans laugh a lot. They maintain very close ties with family and friends. They like to joke, to socialize, to participate in festivals and observe traditions. Fiestas are an integral part of their existence. According to Javier, my Spanish teacher, there are more festivities in San Miguel than anywhere else in Mexico. ZANDUGA means celebration. It aptly describes San Miguel, for this place is truly a celebration of life.
Adrift in Provence & Mexico 